Almost everything that wrecks a house from the outside is water finding its way in, so exterior maintenance is really about keeping water moving away from the structure. Clogged gutters, failed caulk, and bad grading cause far more damage than they should because they're cheap to fix and easy to ignore. Here's the seasonal short list, including the jobs to leave to a pro.
Quick exterior checklist
- Clean the gutters and downspouts.
- Check the roof from the ground.
- Re-caulk gaps around windows, doors, and penetrations.
- Look over the siding and paint for water damage.
- Make sure the ground slopes away from the foundation.
- Shut off and drain outdoor faucets before a freeze.
- Inspect the deck for rot and loose boards.
Clean the gutters and downspouts
When gutters fill with leaves, water pours over the side and down against the foundation, which is how basements flood and foundations crack. Clear them at least twice a year, more if you have trees overhead, and run a hose to confirm the downspouts carry water at least four to six feet from the house. Downspout extensions cost a few dollars and prevent a lot of damage.
Check the roof from the ground
You can catch most roof trouble without a ladder. From the yard with binoculars, look for missing, curled, or cracked shingles, dark streaks, and damaged flashing around the chimney and vents. A small repair now is cheap; a leak that rots the deck means a new roof. Walking the roof is dangerous, so leave the close inspection and any repair to a roofer.
Re-caulk gaps and seal penetrations
Gaps around windows, doors, and where pipes and wires enter the house let in water, drafts, and pests. Check the caulk each year, scrape out anything cracked or pulling away, and reseal with exterior-grade caulk. It's the cheapest weatherproofing you can do.
Inspect siding and paint
Peeling paint and cracked or loose siding are the house telling you water is getting behind the surface. Walk the perimeter once a year and look for soft spots, bubbling, and gaps, and touch up bare wood before it rots. Exterior paint protects the material under it, so it's maintenance, not just looks.
Grade the soil away from the foundation
The ground should slope down and away from the house so rain drains off instead of pooling against the foundation. Over time soil settles and creates a low spot that funnels water straight down the wall. Add soil to keep a gentle slope, and keep mulch and beds from trapping water against the siding.
Winterize outdoor faucets
Water left in an outdoor faucet can freeze, expand, and split the pipe inside the wall, which you won't find until it thaws and floods. Before the first hard freeze, disconnect the hoses, shut off the interior valve that feeds each outdoor faucet if you have one, and open the spigot to drain it.
Inspect the deck
Each spring, check the deck for soft or rotted boards, popped nails, wobbly railings, and loose ledger connections where it attaches to the house. A failing ledger is what causes decks to collapse. Tighten what you can and call a contractor for anything structural.
When to call a pro
Call a pro to go up on the roof, to repair flashing or shingles, to handle anything structural on the deck or foundation, and to sweep and inspect a chimney before you use the fireplace. The ground-level checks are yours; the height and the structure are theirs.
Good maintenance rhythm
Run the exterior on a seasonal rhythm so water never gets a foothold.
- Spring and fall: clean the gutters and downspouts.
- Spring: inspect the deck, siding, and paint, and check the roof from the ground.
- Yearly: re-caulk gaps and reseal penetrations.
- Before the first freeze: shut off and drain the outdoor faucets.
- Ongoing: keep the soil sloped away from the foundation.
- As needed: touch up bare exterior wood before it rots.